Painting Session 2
Tender & Hornplate Painting

ModelWorks 4 inch Scale Burrell Agricultural Traction Engine

 

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Painting session 1

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Painting session 3

Sunday 18 July: Preparation have started in earnest for a big painting session.

As the picture above shows I have a lot more room in the garage. 

Because many of the assemblies are heavy and I need to move them around whilst spraying I have acquired an engine stand to hold them whilst painting.  I found it easy to adapt the stand to hold the tender and I hope to be able to spray each coat in one go.

I was hoping to get on and start priming the tender today but once I got it mounted I could see that I had a few preparation jobs to do.  I had not yet cut off the bolts on the bunker.  Access was difficult and I was stuck until I remembered I had some mini cut off disks for my mini-drill.  I found these just the ticket.  I used several disks but there would have been no other easy way of getting to the heads.

I found that Acetone would remove the last remains of the Isoflex.  My next task before priming will be to fill some of the cracks with metal filler. 

Monday/Tuesday: Preparation continued, it taking two full evenings to finish preparing 



the tender and accessories.  Having filled the cracks and screw slots with metal filler it took most on Tuesday to sand these back flush.  My final preparation tasks was to thoroughly degrease everything.

Wednesday:  I shall be painting many of the brass tender accessories and to ensure good paint adhesion these need to be etch primed. (What is etch primer?)  I used two part etch primer from  Phoenix Precision Paints applied with my air brush.  I found this easier to apply than their single part etch primer used previously on my POP.  With this paint I had to be careful to avoid it emerging as a mass of fine hairs - just like spraying cobwebs!
 

The picture right shows the etch primed accessories.   It is hard to see the paint since only a thin coat is needed and the paint is a sort of brassy colour.

I have found it useful to attach "stalks" to the smaller components whilst spraying, in this case they are nails glued on with Loctite. 

In my next painting session I will prime everything with "ordinary" primer to give an even base for my chosen colour.


 
Thursday: Today was the first big painting session and I found it harder than I expected.   The tender is the largest thing I have ever sprayed and I found difficult to apply and even coat.  I also found it difficult to get at the inside of the coal bunker.


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Saturday: The results of my spraying are not as good as I had expected.  In places the finish was quite rough.  I decided to rub down with fine wet & dry paper.  This did the trick. (see below I did not do this thoroughly enough!)

I shall be painting the inside of the tender black so I have masked that off.  I will paint the outside first since I plan to paint the beading  black and it will be easier to mask off just under the beading.

I used my airbrush to apply the top coat to the accessories.  The parts are small and I have had much more practice using it.

I decided to use the air brush for the difficult bits of the tender prior to giving the tender a general coat with the spray gun.  I did the edges, various brackets and all the rivets.   I can throttle the air brush right back and build up colour in the cracks.

The last task of the day was to fire up the spray gun and paint the outside of the tender. 


Disappointment

The above pictures show two problems.  The first shows fine scratches on the tender side that I inflicted when I used a course flap wheel in my angle grinder.  I did not notice them through the primer and would have expected that rubbing down the primer would have further reduced them.  The second shows what at first I thought was dust but have since concluded is paint splatters. Does the camera lie? These pictures are several times full-size and taken close up from an angle to get the "worst" possible picture.  When the paint has dried I will judge how bad things are and decide what to do.

For the first fill up of the spray gun I experimented and thinned the paint "just right" testing it on bits of card.  When it run low I quickly mixed up some more, to what I hoped was the same recipe.  Too late I discovered I had not put enough thinners in and it was coming out in lumps.  

I used a whole 250ml can of paint!  Where has it gone?  Mostly on the garage floor!  

Sunday: The tender looks good from a distance but close up it is not acceptable.  The worst problem is the paint splatter caused by a combination of under thinning the paint and spray gun pressure/settings.  
Today I also discovered that there was a partial blockage in one of the fan tail air jets of the gun.  These should change the shape of the spray pattern from round to oval  by blowing sideways into the emerging spray jet.  Both air jets appeared to be working but when I filed the gun with water I could see this was not the case.  I eventually managed to dislodge a ball of paint using an aerosol propelled jet of cleaning fluid.

The moral of this story is to always check equipment and paint (on each top up) before applying paint to the model.

My recovery plan is to allow several days for the paint to harden and rub down the affected areas.  With care I should avoid rubbing down to the primer and be able to recoat with a thin gloss coat.

Recovery

Tuesday 27 July:  The paint was now hard enough and I decided to rub the tender down with 1200 grit wet and dry paper.  I found it better to use it wet.  It soon became apparent that I had previously made another mistake.  On rubbing down many of the rough areas white speckles were revealed.  I conclude that this was the result of splattering from the primer stage and failing to rub it down properly between coats.  This account is turning into "How not to paint a Burrell". Patience, Preparation and Practice are essential; I seem to have forgot these are the 3P's of painting.
 

Rubbed down tender showing speckles The same area after the final respray
  
Having rubbed down and cleaned the tender I filled the spray gun with a fairly thin mix of gloss paint and checked the gun on on white card.  Immediately I could see it was working much better, the paint being fully atomised.  The results on the tender were very encouraging, with the gloss sheen returning after one of two passes of the spray gun.  Were I had rubbed down to primer (the speckles) I found it took many passes to obliterate them.  

The tender is still wet but I am hopeful that when I inspect it tomorrow I will be satisfied with the results. At fist sight it looks like I have largely removed the scratches caused by the flap wheel.

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