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ModelWorks 4 inch Scale Burrell Agricultural Traction Engine
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| General Painting Notes | Painting session 2 | |
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Caution |
By painting as each kit is delivered I am gambling on ModelWorks getting the the Burrell right first time. Bear in mind that there is no exact prototype of the MW Burrell and it only exists as a completed design on a computerised CAD system. I will also have to be careful that the paint does not get tatty over the 2 year Build cycle. | |
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Sunday 7 I have decided to use Hammerite Smooth Dark Green (from B&Q). I had originally planned to use Phoenix Burrell Quaker Green. The principal reason for opting for Hammerite is that I found the solvent from the Phoenix paint overpowering. I painted the following sample with my chosen Dark Green at the bottom. (1/1/03 I may have been overpowered because of a fault with my mask)
It is impossible to accurately photograph a color, but the above shows the relative difference. I think the Quaker Green is a bit "Khaki" and I definitely prefer the "Darkness" of the Dark Green. You pays your money an make your choice! I brushed the above sample and I must admit that I got a better finish with the Quaker Green. I have been pondering the Burrell Quaker Green as to how it was used in full size practice. Was it used as a contrast colour with another colour? Perhaps with Burrell Green (Light Green)? I don't recall seeing a Burrell in this shade of green. There might be a clue here. I found this site yesterday it has loads of TE pictures sorted by manufacturer. Take a look at No 3917 reg TA2374 Triumph on www.sharpos-world.co.uk/mainindx/road/index.htm Masking up
Primer
Thursday 18: Activity on the Burrell has taken a back seat to my POP steam wagon. 1st January 2004: I have spent the last few days preparing and spraying the body panels for my POP steam wagon. This has got me back into painting mode so I thought it was time to put the gloss coat. Today I have applied one light coat with my Kite spray gun.
I am a bit concerned that I have got white edges where the paint has not stuck to the corners. The corners are not particularly sharp, the primer found them OK! I shall give them special attention when I apply the next coat, I might even air brush them. Friday 2: Decided to use my airbrush as I wanted to make sure I got the corners. I set the airbrush to give a faint narrow line and slowly built up a good coverage one the corners. Saturday 3: Time for the final coat with my Kite spray gun. This went on easily and I am pleased with the finish. I am using Hammerite paint and today I found the data sheet(pdf) and discovered that I should be recoating within 3 hours to avoid a wrinkled finish. Luckily I have got away with it but next time I shall not allow so long between coats. I occasionally noticed this problem with my POP and I mistakenly assumed that it was caused by re-coating too quickly.
I plan to store the painted parts for a while to allow the paint to harden. I understand that in addition to the thinners evaporating the paint needs time to oxidize. This will take between 4-6 weeks. |
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