Lining - How not to do it! 
Part 2

Thursday 20th October: I decided to press on and line the wheels whilst waiting for the final kit to arrive.  As it is getting cold I removed all four wheels and retired to the warmth of the workshop. My intention was to do all four in one hit.

As before I used my engine stand to support the wheel whilst lining - was this a good idea? - read on.

The design I have plumped for has a thick black line down the centre flanked by thin yellow lines.  

Whilst at the Midlands Model Engineering Exhibition I brought a 1/4" wheel for my Beugler for the central black line. 

To get a square ends to the lines I stuck masking tape at their ends.  In order to position this tape quickly and accurately I made a cardboard template that I simply rested on the rim of the wheel to mark the bottom of each piece of tape.

I started on the front wheel and after all my practice expected no problems - wrong.  I had not previously used the 1/4" wheel and I found it much more difficult.  I was getting too much paint and the lines were not crisp.  I purchased a new can of one shot black at the same time as the new wheel and I suspect this may have be to runny.  Either that or the wheel was faulty.   I pressed in the hope that the yellow lines will hide the poor black edge. My lining improved slightly and I found it important but difficult to keep the stripper at exactly 90 degrees to the work.  I decided to call it a day after "ruining" both front wheels.

Friday: Having left the black to dry over night I wanted to see if I could over paint the smudged black lines with the yellow flanking lines.  The Beugler behaved itself much better with the thinner wheel and I was pleased to find that it covered the black without any problems.

To assist is setting the Beugler guide arm I have scribed a series of lines on a steal block.  A short trial stroke shows me the line offset and I nudge the guide bar until I get the desired offset.

I am using a Number 57 wheel which has an advertised line width of 1/16".  To allow for paint flow Beugler make the wheel smaller.  I have measured all my stripping heads and it would seem that the wheel number it the physical width of the wheel in thou minus one. I find that the paint flows more than Beugler expects and the achieved line width with a No 57 wheel is 80 thou.

Again I found it much harder than on my test pieces - the other bits get in the way!  I found it impossible to get behind the oiler tube - it would have been a good idea to have left off fitting it.

The picture right shows what I achieved and this my be "clicked to enlarge".  I am not totally happy with the result and I intent to touch up what I can with my pin striping brushes other than that I will have to live with it. The lines are wider than I would have liked which has made the wheel "over yellow".

My attention turned to the back wheel and how I was going to get the Beugler to work properly.  I loaded up the striper for a practice session and found I could do reasonable lines.  There was still too much paint for my liking as demonstrated by the amount of paint used.   The other problem that this was causing was runs. 

To reduce the likelihood of runs I wanted to get the wheel flat and I started dreaming up ways of doing this with my engine stand.  It then hit me that I had been fixated on the engine stand and was ignoring the obvious solution - holding the stub axle in the workshop vice!

Working with the wheel flat was much easier - why did it take me so long to realise this?  Most of the lines were pretty good and I conclude that the Beugler works better with gravity on its side.  

Saturday: Now that the black was dry it was time to add the yellow flanking lines.  This was nerve wracking and on finding that some of the curves were breaking up (see below right) I decided to leave them for later.  My plan is to go back over them with my pinstriping brushes tomorrow.

I slipped a few times and had to use my wipe out tool to push the paint back into place.

Wednesday: With the warmer weather I decided to venture out into the garage and make a start lining the engine.  My original intention was just to attempt the tender but I got carried away and completed the whole back end. 

I marked the position of each line using Chinagraph pencil.  The picture right shows the rear corner of the tender complete with marking out lines.  My plan was to use the Beugler for as much as I could and complete using my pinstriping brushes.  To avoid marks where I changed method I swapped between Beugler and brush as I did each panel.  This worked very well and I found that a line started with the Beugler severed as a guide to get a consistent width when using the brush.  I used my Xcaliber 000 pinstriping brush as this withstood the effect of gravity better when doing a horizontal line on a vertical panel.

I found the marking out lines extremely helpful. They enabled me to stop the lines in just the right place without using any masking tape.  They also simplified setting up the Beugler guide arm.  I did make mistakes. Small mistakes I correct with my wipe out tool and I wiped away disasters using one shot reducer (thinners) and started again.

I am very please with the results.  On the basis that less is more I don't intend to add any more lines to the rear of the engine.  The only other lining I plan is on the boiler cleading but that will have to wait as hopefully the last kit will arrive Friday.

Saturday: Still no kit so I tackled the boiler cleading today.  As I wanted the lines to be parallel and even with the boiler bands I fitted the cleading to the engine.  This was easier said that done as I had to remove much of the valve gear and steering chains.  Perhaps I should not have delayed fitting the cleading so long.

After marking the position of the bands I removed the cleading as I thought it would be easier to paint off the engine.  It also allowed me to take the inside band under the cleading. 

Sunday: For the yellow flanking lines I used the Finesse tape since I could not use my Beugler as some of the lines required were not parallel to the edge of the cleading. While the F25 tape I have is for double lines I just used the 3/32 section.  In the picture right I have painted the first yellow line but have not yet removed the Finesse masking stencil.  The line at the other end is not yet painted.

I used the Beugler to circumnavigate the manhole cover hole on the rear section of cleading. I blended this line into the line I had previously laid down with the Finesse tape using my Xcaliber 000 pinstriping brush

The Burrell after lining 1600x1200

I have now finished the lining and am very pleased with the results.  If I had my time over again I would have started lining at an earlier stage of assembly as some parts were hard to get at.  I been forced to leave the spectacle plates unlined.

Tim, who Burrell  pictures are featured in the gallery, tells me the correct Burrell full size lining would have used 1" Black , 3/8" Red & 1/8" Yellow bands.  The interesting point is that at 4" scale the yellow bands would only be 42 thou wide, something I have never seen on the rally field.