Kit 16 - Flywheel, Con Rod & Crank

ModelWorks 4 inch Scale Burrell Agricultural Traction Engine
I collected Kit 16 from City Link on Saturday (4/3/05)

Kit 16 should include the crank but this will now be shipped later.

Friday:  Citylink attempted to deliver Kit 16 today but as I am busy on the boiler I will not go and collect it until tomorrow.

Saturday: I have now collected kit 16 but other than checking the contents I will continue working on the boiler.

Tuesday 8 March: Today I tackled the weighshaft bracket.  The first task was to get the piston moving.  It was extremely stiff so I removed the top guide, loosened the bolt holding the lower and lubricated the cylinder with steam oil.  As it need a fair force to move and when it did it jerked I fixed tool maker's clamps at each end of the guide to limit the stroke in order to prevent running the piston into the steam passages.  After working it back an forth for a while it became relatively free.  When I tightened to lower guide's bolt it jammed.  By inserting shims between the guide and the cylinder cover I was able to get the piston moving again freely.  It took some time to find exactly the right thickness, in this case it was about 5 thou. 


I then fitted the weighshaft bracket and refitted the lower guide.  Fortunately this was just right with no adjustment needed.  Similarly I fitted the top guide with out much trouble, it only being necessary to deepen the counter sinking of the guide to allow  the knuckle to pass.  It took most of the evening but I am happy I have got the piston moving freely with the guides fitted.

I may shorten the weighshaft bracket studs as them seem a bit long.
 
Wednesday 16
:  Over the last few days I been working on Burrell at a reduced pace but I have not been completely idle.  I have painted the weighshaft bracket after I realised I would not be able to remove it once I've fitted the studs.  I did ponder the colour as I have seen it painted either black or maroon.  I decided on maroon.   Whilst I was in the painting mood I painted the  main drive gears, winding drum and the steering components previously forgotten.  I also made a start on the gear guards painting their insides with a nice thick coat of black paint.
 
I found cleaning up the fly wheel not as laborious as implied by Steve, and this is scheduled for painting at the weekend along with the gear guards.

Friday: Painted the fly wheel and gear guard today.  The fly wheel looks good but I will be giving it another coat as it is so visible.  I am not so happy with the gear guards but I am sure I will be able to rescue them with rub down with wet and dry.
 
Saturday: I trial assembled the connecting rod today.  Having made several of these my self, all be it smaller, I was impressed with the finish achieved by Modelworks particularly on the long taper.

There is now not much more I can do until the crank arrives so I will be getting back to my POP cart.

Friday 6th May
: The crank has finally arrived which will enable me to get on and finish this kit.

Monday: Back to the Burrell after spending the weekend fiddling with POP.

The instructions warn of porosity of the crank casting and I noticed one or two small holes  through the general condition of the casting was good. Cleaning up the casting was simply achieved with a file. When gluing the splines with Loctite I used the vice to push them fully home.  (20/8/05) Don't fit the splines until fit of spur gear is tested.

I had not previously fitted the bearings to their housing and I found that I had to remove about 10 thou from  the left hand bearing's shoulder.  I did this with a file taking advantage of its safe edge so as not to cut into the bottom.  I only removed a little at a time I wanted a snug fit.

I trial fitted the connecting rod so that I could ascertain the number of shims I would have to fit to the right hand bearing housing. The little end was offset by 1mm so I fitted 2 x 0.5mm shims.

On refitting the crank I needed to move the eccentric/pulley combination 1mm to the right, trouble was the reverse eccentric was hard up against crank.  To fix the problem I slightly chamfered the bore or the eccentric so that in could get it closer to the crank.

The last task was to fit the flywheel which necessitated removing the left hand wheel.  I accomplished this surprisingly easily using the bottle under the hornplate.  I had to shave a few thou off the flywheel key in order to get it to fit.

I have turned my attention back to kit19 and am now partway through fitting the eccentric rods.  Further adjustment of the crank and eccentrics is covered here also in the kit 19 entry.

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