Kit 2 - Front Axle and Perch

ModelWorks 4 inch Scale Burrell Agricultural Traction Engine
Kit 2 arrived 28th November 2003
 

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Friday:
I have checked out the kit and it all looks quite straight forward.

The contents of kit 2 still in it protective packing

Major parts of Burrell front axle
The major parts laid out in the workshop

The assembly of this kit is not going to take very long.  A little cleaning up and the parts will be ready for painting.  Painting is going to cause a hiccup.  I have not yet decided what colour scheme to go for.

Saturday: Today I decide to "dry assemble" the axle

The axle and wheel assembled for the first time

A Little Problem
When I came to fit the hubs I found the screws a little on the short side.  First I though it was the screws, but these protrude 2.5 past the hub (after deburing the holes). The next candidate was the spoke CSK screws.



The counter sunk hex head screws aren't quite flush.  These might need attention to avoid these rubbing on the collar  in places other than intended.  I have just discovered that the real problem is that the axle is too long and makes contact with the centre of the hub.  I am debating whether to shorten the end of the axle or increase the recess inside the hub.  I have just measured things up, and compared them against the LSM Burrell Drawings I have.  All the principal dimensions tie up very well except my stub axles are about 4.2 inches long having an extra boss at the end. This is visible in the photo above.  I conclude that this is a left over from manufacturing and should not be there.  If this were removed the stub axle would be 4 inches long and everything would fit fine. 

My options are:-
  • Contact Modelworks who I am sure would be helpful

  • Turn the boss off in the lathe

  • Mill the boss off

  • Saw/file/Grind the boss away

Option one is probably the correct answer but I like to solve problems myself.  I hope I am not about to scrap an axle.  Option 2 is out, since it won't quite fit in the lathe and is a complicated setup.  The last two options are open to me and using the mill seems to  require the least effort.  The finish does not have to be that good I just have to be careful not to damage the bearing surface of the axle. 

Is mine the only affected axle? Are the others OK? 

Note (1/12/03): Modelworks advise that the bosses should be cut off by either sawing or grinding depending on available equipment.

Going for it!
I hope I am doing the right thing.

Set up in mill, part way through!
Using a mill was unnecessary

After removing the manfacturing boss
I could have easily achieved this
result with saw and file 

I think using the mill was a bit OTT but I achieved a neat finish with little effort.  I have now refitted the axle caps and the difference is very noticeable, no problems at all, and a very snug fit.

Fork Axle Clearance
Judging by the comments from Graham & Peter in the Guest Book there may be a problem getting the axle to fit between the forks.  Mine fits fine with 10 thou clearance. My axle is 1.260" and my fork spacing is 1.270"

Cleaning up the Castings

This task cannot be forgotten so I set about cleaning up the castings this afternoon. Using a combination of Flap wheel, files and mini drill. A lot of fine dust was kicked off by the flap wheal so I recommend using a mask. After knocking the lose stuff off with the flap wheal I found the iron nice and soft so I removed the fetling marks mostly with a file.  How much to clean up is a matter of judgment.  I hope I've got it right.


Cleaning up castings

Holding the castings in certain orientations had me puzzled until I hit on the following idea.  I found that with a bolt loosely gripped in the vise and passing it through the central hole of each casting I could firmly bolt it to the top of the vise.

Painting

Sunday 7: I have now decided on the colour scheme for my Burrell and the account continues here.

 

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